Sno burst games

Below is a breakdown of different Jacobsen models and common parts requests or issues. Parts numbers are included where known:. The Imperial line also boasted a clearing path as broad as 30 inches. The Jacobsen Sno-Burst is a two-stage, gas-driven walk behind that made an or inch clearing using, at least in the models we uncovered, 3hp. Using about 2. Older models cut a inch path, while later models cut a inch swath. Jacobsen Snow Blowers.

It still runs fine. Gears for the drive assembly are a very common request. After this much time, the gears can be loose on the shaft that drives the wheels, potentially losing either forward or reverse motion.

Loss of the reverse gear seems particularly common. I thought i needed a carb kit but i just had the diaphragm togather wrong.

Any hints on setting the idle screws? I can fire it up but it has no power. I think the settin screws are off too. The two screws control the fuel-air ratios during the different operating modes. One of them controls the ratio at idle, the other under load. Bottom out both screws not tight, just all the way down , then back them both off by 1. Once warm, pick a screw and start messing with it. Turning the screw in, the engine should eventually bog out and die. The point you want is the farthest in you can go while keeping the fastest idle possible.

In other words, turn the screw out from the 1. Starting with the engine running and warm, the idle screw set, and the load screw at 1. Listen to and feel the engine. Hit the snow again. This will put you at 1 turn from bottom. If current setting is worse than last setting, try 1 full turn in. Personally, I have found this engine to be pretty much untunable beyond the factory default settings. Both the idle and load screws on mine are at 1.

Also just as a quick reference, as a general rule, the default setting on any 2-cycle engine is 1. The default for a 4-cycle is 2. Thanks for the carb adjusting info. It helped alot. When i kill the engine a little gas runs out of the carb through the air intake. I found some other info on this carb on another page. Looks like this carb was used on some kind of powered glider. There are a few settings on this page as well.

This is great information. I look forward to using it to overhaul the carb on the Snow-Burst unit I just got for free this past week. It runs, but is a very rough idle. Does anyone know where it get a carb rebuild kit with all of the gaskets and diaphragm. Does anyone know where to get a free owners manual for this model? Also, trying to figure out how to operate — the choke seems to control the engine speed rather crude though!

Just be careful when taking it apart and you should be able to reuse everything. Mind getting a picture? The choke should have quite an effect on engine speed until the engine warms up. If anything, it should kill a warm engine. Always throw to the right. It sounds like a pain, but you can get going at a good clip and it gets the job done rather nicely. Did your take off the air filter for illustration purposes, or did your unit not come with an air filter as well?

At a minimun I would think that a wire wesh would be needed to keep out large pieces of dirt. I tried to copy and paste the pictures I took to show the electronic ignition, but not sure how to do. Please advise how to post pictures to this site. My plans over the summer involve fabricating an air cleaner as well as an electric start setup. Stay Tuned. I discovered it was coming from the fuel line — carb area so I decided to pull the carb off and have a better look.

I have a few tricks to share here. You can remove the carb without removing the thick intake gasket if you use a double ended — right angle flat screwdriver on the two gold colored screws on the end of the carb. Remove the choke cable. Then, and this the trick, use an inspection mirror to see the plastic levers for the governor — throttle advance.

Finagle the carb around so the pivot point of those levers can be separated, they just pop apart. Then your carb is free. The fuel line fitting is just a press in deal, and mine was pretty loose which was apparently causing my fuel leak. To fix this I removed the fitting from the carb and using a small — beveled punch and a vise I lightly tapped the punch into the carb end of the fitting to flare it ever so slightly.

Then I pressed, with a few taps of a hammer, the fitting back into the carb. It was much tighter and my leak is gone. This is a lot of great info on the Jacobsen snow thrower and I plan to use it if I need to. I purchased a used one last summer without a manual. Can someone tell me the correct procedure for starting a Jacabsen? Was that a Tillotson carb on the Jacobsen? Thanks to you both as I have had some difficulty with my old snow blower and the adjustment advise from cilynx, solved my problem.

The photos and effort to put this together are great. Choke pulled all the way out. One rip to prime. One rip and she starts. Fiddle with choke generally having to pull out to keep it running. Work it back in as the engine warms up. Choke at half.

One rip start. Fiddle with choke to keep running. Work choke slowly down to all the way in. Maybe time for another photo-tutorial…. I picked up 2 non working Sno-Burst units for free over the last few years.

Recently I got them both running. These are a few tips I learned that may help in getting other Sno-Burst to work. The original sparkplug in both of mine was a Champion UJ They had a gap set at.

Auto supply stores and big box hardware stores did not have it, but ACE Hardware did. It is also probably available at small engine repair places.

The first Sno-Burst I got started by taking the carburetor out and draining the fuel form the tank, lines, and carburetor. Turns out the fuel was old and most of the gas had evaporated leaving the fuel as a thick oily substance. The fuel was not old enough to totally clog and varnish the carburetor, but it did not have enough gas left to fire up. After getting the first Sno-Burst to run I started on the second one.

This time I drained the tank and fuel line and turned the Sno-Burst on its side with the drive pulley side up. Removed the exposed side of the carburetor by taking out the 4 screws with a very short screwdriver and took off the metal cover.

With the cover off I wiped up the oily fuel remaining on the exposed carburetor internals, turned the Sno-Burst over to drain any remaining fuel from the carburetor and reassembled the carburetor. After putting some new fuel in the tank it started up after a few pulls and now runs OK.

You might try this shortcut before totally removing the carburetor if the fuel in the tank is thick and seems like the gas has mostly evaporated. In answering the previous air filter question, it appears there was never a filter on the carburetor. One of my Sno-Burst has a plastic cover that fits over the carburetor to protect it. There is no way to attach an air filter to this original equipment cover. I have owned three new Jacobsens and they do not come from the factory with an aircleaner.

Winter is almost over! Forgot to add. I may have a manual for my last one. I belive it even has the key taped to it. I scraped it after 15 years. Carb is same as some chain saws and mine developed a problem with the gasket. With jacobsen gone it is hard to find parts. After reading this thread I was able to get my Jacobsen running. It runs pretty good, however I do have to pull the carb one more time to figure out why the throttle plate is sticking full open and full close.

I was able to find a website with Walbro parts and manuals.